Assam’s chai culture extends far beyond its famed tea gardens, revealing a deeply personal tradition of rituals and unique flavors. Home chef Sneha Saikia highlights that tea is a cherished ritual, often enjoyed with pitha and traditionally served as pure red tea (Lal Sa) without milk, emphasizing community and mindful connection.
When Prime Minister Narendra Modi recently visited a tea garden in Assam, it reignited national attention on the state’s globally celebrated tea industry. But beyond the sprawling plantations and export headlines lies a quieter, deeply personal story—one of rituals, flavours, and traditions that rarely make it to the mainstream.According to Delhi-based home chef Sneha Saikia, who curates immersive dining experiences through her initiative Table for 6 Luncheon, Assam’s chai culture is far more layered than what most people imagine.
Tea in Assam is a ritual, not a habit
“People often assume chai is something you drink casually, anytime,” says Saikia. “But in Assam, tea is a ritual. There is a designated tea time, and families actually sit together to drink it.”She explains that this practice is rooted in tradition, where tea is served with intention and grace.
“We don’t just pour tea into cups and move on. Traditionally, tea was served in bell metal utensils called banbati. Guests are seated properly, and tea is offered with respect—almost like a ceremony.”Alongside the tea comes pitha, a staple Assamese delicacy. “There are so many varieties of pitha, often made with sticky rice and stuffed with jaggery or coconut. No biscuits, no cookies—that’s not part of the culture,” she adds.
Lal Sa over Milk Tea: It’s lighter, more honest
One of the biggest surprises for outsiders is Assam’s preference for Lal Sa, or red tea. “It’s always without milk,” Saikia emphasizes. “Milk tea is actually a later adaptation. Traditionally, milk wasn’t easily available, so people drank tea in its purest form.”She laughs while comparing regional preferences: “In North India, if you serve tea without milk, people might feel offended. But in Assam, serving Lal Sa is a sign of authenticity.
It’s light, doesn’t make you feel bloated, and you can drink it multiple times a day.”Often paired with jaggery instead of sugar, Lal Sa remains the most common tea served in homes and roadside stalls alike.
There’s so much more than just green tea
While global conversations around tea often revolve around green tea, Saikia points out that Assam has its own rich spectrum of lesser-known varieties.“We have hand-rolled tea leaves, smoked tea, and even fermented tea stored in bamboo,” she says.
“The fermented one actually comes from the Singpho tribe, who were among the first to cultivate tea in Assam—long before the British.”According to her, this bamboo-fermented tea was once reserved for royalty due to its medicinal properties. “Even today, it’s rare and quite expensive.”She adds an interesting historical detail: “Before people started drinking tea, they used to eat tea leaves—like pakoras or chutneys.
Brewing came later.”
Floral teas: Not everything comes from tea leaves
Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of Assam’s chai culture is its openness to non-tea infusions. “After meals, it’s not necessary that we drink tea made from tea leaves,” Saikia explains. “We often brew flowers.” Among the most common are roselle and hibiscus. “Roselle petals are dried and stored, then brewed into a tangy, refreshing drink. Hibiscus is also very popular.”She highlights xewali (coral jasmine) as a personal favourite.
“It’s slightly bitter but very calming. People say it helps with sleep and even diabetes. You just boil the dried flowers in water—no milk, no sugar.”Even aparajita (butterfly pea flower) has found its place in modern Assamese kitchens. “That’s a more recent addition, but it’s gaining popularity.”
Tea with pitha… and even fried fish?
Food pairings in Assam’s tea culture are equally distinctive. “Pitha is the most common accompaniment, especially during festivals like Bihu,” Saikia says.
“But we also have coconut laddoos, black chana, and sometimes even fried small fish.” She smiles at the reaction this usually gets. “It sounds unusual, but it’s completely normal for us.” One street favourite she often recreates in Delhi is Ketli Pitha. “It’s a steamed rice cake made using a kettle, usually stuffed with jaggery.
You’ll find people selling it fresh on the streets with Lal Sa—it’s a whole experience.”
Tea is really about community
For Saikia, what truly defines Assam’s chai culture is not the variety but the emotions and intentions behind it. “Tea is always an excuse to come together. Whether it’s family at home or people gathering at a roadside stall, it’s about connection.”Through her Table for 6 Luncheon in Delhi, she tries to recreate this experience. “I want people to understand that Assamese food—and tea—is deeply rooted in community and mindfulness.
It’s not rushed. It’s shared.”
Beyond the Tea gardens
As Assam continues to draw attention for its tea estates, especially after high-profile visits, voices like Sneha Saikia’s remind us of a richer narrative—one that lives beyond plantations. Because in Assam, chai isn’t just grown. It’s lived, shared, and passed down—one mindful cup at a time.Images Courtesy: istock and Sneha Saikia
